The return of the new Breitling Chronomat and Rouleaux
Exactly 80 years ago, Léon Breitling obtained a patent for a chronograph with a circular slide rule. Two years later, in 1942, the now ancient Chronomat was born, and it showed the reference number 769 to the public for the first time. The name Chronomat is derived from the words chronograph and mathematics. This is because, thanks to this new rotating bezel, certain calculations can be calculated, such as “rule of three” calculations and multiplication and division.
In 1952, an extended version of the Chronomat was introduced, and today many people are likely to regard it as the epitome of slide rule watches, rather than the 1942 model. The 806 in 1952 is more advanced and can perform more complex calculations, which is especially important for aviation. The Chronomat and its original slide rule of the 1940s were mainly designed for scientists and technicians, and Navitimer finally established itself as a pilot watch.
Breitling and Chronomat new design
In the 1980s, Chronomat‘s design changed drastically. In 1983, Breitling developed a new Chronomat for the air squadron of the Italian Air Force “Frecce Tricolori”. It has nothing in common with the slide rule of the past. In 1984, the brand’s 100th anniversary, a new model reference. 81950 was introduced to the public and commercial production. Instead of a slide rule, an eye-catching bezel with an applied rider label rises from the case. The onion-shaped crown and buttons commonly found on pilot watches also add luster to this watch. They no longer use “chronograph” and “mathematics”, but use the terms “chronograph” and “automatic” to justify the name “chronograph”-luckily, it still makes sense .
In addition, the manual winding chronograph Venus 175 was replaced by the high-precision automatic movement Valjoux 7750. As early as 1969, Breitling had used an automatic chronograph movement in the Chronomat watch (Chrono-Matic), equipped with the famous Calibre 11, and co-produced with some other Swiss manufacturers, becoming the earliest automatic chronograph movement of a watch one. While the Swiss watch industry was still shaken by the quartz crisis of the 1970s, Breitling’s 1984 Chronomat was one of the first chronographs equipped with a mechanical movement to re-enter the market.
As a tribute to the 1984 anniversary, Breitling is now launching a series of new Chronomat timepieces. Some of their characteristics are closely related to the retro style of the past, but are interpreted in a modern way. Perhaps the most striking feature that pleases many fans of the series is the integrated Rouleaux bracelet, which was reissued for the first time since 1984. The stainless steel of the bracelet is interconnected with brushed finish and polished finish, giving a quirky, modern and retro look.
In addition, the new Chronomat watch inherits the iconic rotating bezel highlighted by the rider label. They not only protect the crystal, but historically make it easier for “Frecce Tricolori” pilots to use the bezel. In addition, the tab has another very useful function. The two tags at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock positions are interchangeable, so the wearer can use them as a “count up” or “count down” function.
Chronomat is a multifunctional sports watch
But for whom was the Chronomat in the 1980s created? Of course, due to its history in the 1950s, it was very popular among pilots, and it remains the key pilot chronograph in Breitling’s product portfolio to this day. There are a variety of styles to choose from, offering different sizes, colors, materials and special editions to attract a wide range of watch lovers.
Chronomat is a masculine and sporty style that can also be matched with a suit. Therefore, it is more versatile than the bulky Colt or Avenger models. Its versatility increased its appeal in the late 1980s and early 1990s, as its speedometer attracted the interest of Formula One teams, and the reversible rider tag proved to be useful for sailing races.
To this day, Breitling continues to provide customers with multi-functional and multi-purpose Chronomat. It is equipped with a variety of different metal and dial versions-however, this model currently only offers a unified 42 mm case size and a bracelet option, and no additional features such as a second time zone (GMT). This leaves some creative space for more exciting versions in the coming years.online shop for watch
Chronomat B01 42 and Chronomat B01 42 Bentley
The new Chronomat B01 42 (models AB0134101G1A1, AB0134101K1A1, AB0134101C1A1 and AB0134101B1A1) is equipped with a contemporary silver, copper or blue dial with a black contrast chronograph. It also offers a black dial with a silver contrasting counter. The Chronomat B01 42 Bentley (reference AB01343A1L1A1) has joined lineTo to celebrate the long-term partnership with the British luxury car brand. It has a green dial with a black counter, and “Bentley” is engraved around the transparent sapphire caseback, thus increasing the attention of the special model.
In the spirit of the 1980s, when gold and two-tone watches were truly in their heyday, the new series also incorporated a touch of the atmosphere of the 1980s. The Chronomat B01 42 (reference IB0134101G1A1) is equipped with an 18K red gold crown and pusher and an 18K red gold rider label, mark and index. This exquisite two-tone watch features a silver dial and a tonal silver sub-dial, and is paired with a stainless steel Rouleaux bracelet with a butterfly clasp.
The two-color line extends two Chronomat B01 42 references. The main difference between them is that the Rouleaux bracelet is also two-tone-stainless steel and 18k red gold. Model UB0134101C1U1 is decorated with an elegant blue dial and timing counter in the same color-model UB0134101B1U1 has an anthracite dial with a black contrasting counter.
Chronomat B01 42 Frecce Tricolori Limited Edition
Breitling also launched the Chronomat B01 42 Frecce Tricolori Limited Edition (250 pieces), equipped with a blue dial and a chronograph of the same color, to pay tribute to the original model that inspired the modern Chronomat series in 1983. The words Breitling on the dial have been replaced by the “Frecce Tricolori” logo. The words “ONE OF 250” are engraved on the bottom cover. Like other new Chronomat watches, it is equipped with a Rouleaux bracelet with a butterfly clasp.
Each chronograph in the new Chronomat series is powered by an accurate Breitling-made 01 calibre, which is known for its 70-hour long-lasting power reserve. Like all Breitling watches, Chonomats are COSC-certified chronometer watches. The interesting point is that when Breitling launched its in-house calibre 01 in 2009, it was first introduced into Chronomat 01.