The Graham Fortress single-button chronograph, a typical Graham watch is still true to be watered down just a bit to improve its chances. For many of us, Graham is characterized by its huge, trigger-like timing buttons, novel colors and material use, grand proportions, underestimated construction quality, and, frankly, some controversial The style is usually close to cartoon style. Graham Fortress Monopusher Chronograph has retuned many of those loud components to support some unobtrusive retro military atmosphere, aligning the trademark and manufacturing quality, and attaching a high price tag to remind people that there is still no such thing as luxury watchmaking. Free lunch.
Is the fort still a suitable Graham? From a close and a distance, it is absolutely the same. From a distance, it is still very loud, reminding me of the Morgan tricycle, its quasi-military paint job is covered with all the exposed women and bullet hole stickers. If you have one of them, you almost have to get a Graham Fort.
The crown and its integrated single button are located on the left side of the watch-I still wear it on my left wrist because I really appreciate the fact that the huge onion crown does not penetrate the top of the wrist. But hey, if you are left-handed and wear the watch on your right hand, this still looks “correct”. Related to this, shouldn’t there be more luxury watches for left-handed people? I think there should be.
At $7,750, Fort Graham definitely feels and looks expensive, and-although its style is not serious-it feels and looks expensive, it is. It is big, bright and shiny, but the case feels very strong, and when you look at it again, the workmanship is exquisite. The dial shows details that can only be found on moderately priced replica watches for sale, but will be detailed later. The strap, especially the buckle with oversized edges, is beautifully crafted: no external components are eliminated cheaply.
Powered by the G1750 movement described by Graham, the case encapsulates an improved ETA/Valjoux 7750. It is not Sellita: the nearsightedness is clear or just the magnifying glass is weak, you will find it is marked as ETA under the balance wheel. Even the less sharp-eyed among you will find that it is installed “upside down”, remove the crown from the case Take the right side to the left side. Therefore, the continuously running small seconds dial is now at 3 o’clock and the date is at 9 o’clock-all these are simple things.
As I said, the push rod is located in the center of the crown. It is big and easy to find and hit. What is unusual is the initial feeling: compared to the smoothest and simplest mechanical chronograph, it takes some extra power to start the chronograph. This is a single-button chronograph. Starting, stopping and resetting are done by pressing the same button three times. The first push requires the most strength, it is easier to stop, and relatively speaking, resetting is a breeze. I will take more reassuring pressure on vulnerable people at any time, but frankly speaking, the initial force required belongs more to the equipment in the cockpit of the Boeing B-17 Flying Fortress than to ordinary luxury watches. Come to think of it, this watch should not have a buttery smooth press, I think the customers of Graham Fort will agree.
With a diameter of 47 mm, Graham Fortress is still a loud watch even without a ready-made color combination or grenade needle button on the crown. According to traditional watch size guidelines (that is, the end of the lugs must not extend beyond the edge of the wrist), Fortress is visually too large for my 6.75 inch (17.2 cm) wrist. However, there are enough holes in the strap to allow me to fit my body and wear it in a practical and comfortable way. Wearing long sleeves is a way to reduce its oversized appearance. Between you and me, I would say I wish I could take off these watches better in short sleeves.
The Chronofighter Prodive I once owned has such a big pusher. I really like its appearance and operation. In other words, despite the live/pilot watch theme, somehow, the same trigger-like pushers on previous Fortress were never actually clicked (see what I did there?). This integrated button is a more elegant solution. The waterproof rating is 100 meters, which proves that Graham did not cut corners by sacrificing the real world, long-term practicality and durability. Every damn luxury watch should have a WR of at least 100 meters-but many people don’t, and I’m glad it has it.
The bezel is concave and satin brushed, this detail adds more to the uniqueness of Fortress. It would be easy and convenient to attach a polished dome bezel there, but this is how such an expensive watch can and should be separated from other watches. The case and lugs are polished, which makes me wonder if the full satin-brushed look would be more suitable for the subject. But then again, if Graham wants to reach a wider audience, I’ve heard that those audiences prefer expensive watches because it (quite) has a bit of luster.
Wearing a 47mm watch is rarely a cautious or easily forgotten thing-at least not when you are performing. This is especially true on my cramped wrists, which are not specifically designed for wrist clocks over 45 mm. However, when designing large watches, Graham seems to have mastered the trick, as indicated by the deep integration of the strap between the lugs. The holes and spring bars are close to the case itself, and there is almost no gap between the strap and the case-the curved spring bars are further strengthened. All of this is to say that the strap can be turned down directly next to the case without protruding the hard part, and further increase the ear-to-ear size of the part. Large buckles also help to wear comfortably, which is usually the case in my experience. Despite being bulky and made of steel,
The dial looks like the most delicate and expensive part of a fashion watch. There is no way to solve it-the large and complex raised hour markers and thick polished frames look great when they reflect light back to you. They make any dial look expensive because it is very expensive and challenging to produce them at this level. Each index must be set on the exact same plane; the smallest deviation means that only some indexes will be reflected to you, while others will not. Needless to say, this situation can still happen-but it has to do with the light source, and has nothing to do with the level of the index.
The background is an almost microscopic particle that looks rough but not rough. The small dial is recessed under the grain, and the surface treatment is between concentric rings and round polishing-indistinguishable from the naked eye. Appreciating the best of these will require a good magnifying glass.
During the day and to my surprise, the readability is very good during the day. The yellow luminous light on the watch tends to have a significantly weaker luminescence than the ordinary off-white Super-LumiNova. In this case, when I walked into the stairs from the sunny outdoors for the first time, I was pleasantly surprised to find that the halo on the hands and index was even and bright. It’s easy to say that these details should of course be perfect on a high four-digit watch, but just because they should be perfect doesn’t mean this is the norm. But in fact, it’s not. The sapphire crystal on the front is coated with an anti-reflective coating to reduce glare and further improve the legibility of the rhodium-colored hands.
Fort Graham cheap is much less likely to be dumped on the gray market. Combined with stricter controls on distribution and discounts, Graham can even better protect his products from blows before the first sale—and therefore, the same in the secondary market. Graham Fortress is well-made and fun to wear. For those who like this kind of things, it is an expensive, high-quality informal military watch. You can get a similar vibe for less money-this theme has become popular in recent years-but the quality of the case, dial and other equipment, as well as the quirky single-button upside-down movement, has propelled it into the luxury watch category.