Bell & Ross BR 01 Cyber Skull – reinterpreting the square case
The B&R Skull watch adopts avant-garde shape and is matched with an unprecedented carved case.
For good reasons, Bell & Ross watches are usually associated with pilots and the military. Since its inception, this is the reason for the brand’s existence. The serious, concealed and practical iconic BR 01 and BR 03 series, “circle in a square”, perfectly sum up the brand’s design language. However, Bell & Ross sometimes becomes a bit “wild” and walks off the beaten track with bolder watches. Since 2009, these watches have been called the Skull series. Today, the brand has launched the latest model of the series, breaking the traditional rules of the series with a modern, architectural concept. Get to know the new Bell & Ross BR 01 Cyber Skull and its new case.
Since 2009, the skull has proven to be the source of inspiration for Bell & Ross. We have seen the skulls on the dials of nearly a dozen watches. You might be wondering its relevance in the military/pilot surveillance environment… but in reality, the skull is one of the most military-oriented symbols you can imagine. From the Vikings to the paratroopers of World War II and of course pirates, skulls are widely used in the symbolism of war-mainly to impress opponents. Consider the “Jolly Rogers” pirate flag. On D day in June 1944, the American paratroopers landed on the French coast, and the skull emblem on their uniforms read “Death From Above”. The “Bell & Ross Skull” series is an ode to this particular military symbolism and also depicts the value of Memento Mori and Vanitas.
The first model in the series was launched in 2009 with the model BR 01 Skull, followed by multiple iterations with different colors or materials, such as this bronze edition. In 2016, the brand once again used the symbol of skull and crossbones, but this time combined tattoo elements to create one of the boldest models in the brand’s history. Finally, in 2018, the brand `BR launched a skeleton movement, which is equipped with an automatic machine (animation of the winding case) BR 01 Laughing Skull.
THE NEW BELL&ROSS BR 01 CYBER SKULL
So far, all Bell & Ross Skull watches have adopted the classic (extra-large) BR 01 case, using a traditional square design and turning the round dial into a skull-shaped opening. In addition, the four functional screws are framed by classic crossbones, forming a retro style. Those times are gone; the BR 01 Cyber Skull completely broke away from this style and introduced a brand new case.
This new watch comes with a “Cyber” case, carved like a stealth airplane. Modern, multi-faceted, fashionable and futuristic, marking a new chapter in brand development. Bell & Ross did not hide its inspiration. This is the Lockheed Martin F-117 Nighthawk, which is one of the most iconic aircraft of the US Air Force. The 46mm case is made of anti-reflective matte black ceramic, with multiple angles and small planes-designed to reduce radar signals from aircraft-highlighting the ultra-modern style of this watch. The square has been the logo of the brand since 2005 and has now been remodeled into a 45-degree angle. The top of this watch Popular is a faceted sapphire crystal.
Design is more than shape. Indeed, important elements of Bell & Ross watch design have been repositioned. The screws that are usually present on each corner of the sealed case have been repositioned into the structure of the movement, inside the case and under the protective crystal. All in all, BR 01 Cyber Skull evokes the classic Bell & Ross coding, but it marks an important new direction in the brand’s design DNA. All elements of transportation are sharp and multifaceted, including the crown or skull and its crossbones.
The BR 01 Cyber Skull is a large watch that reflects the classic 46 mm ratio of the BR 01 series. Of course, it will not be ignored, and a strong wrist is needed to maintain balance. However, the case is relatively short (from 12 o’clock to 6 o’clock), and the lug size is 45mm. The watch is worn on a classic black rubber strap with “BR” lettering and a PVD-coated pin buckle.
The star of the show is a modern and multifaceted interpretation of the concept of “laughing skull”. If the craftsman is familiar, all decorative elements have been redesigned to suit the invisibility and modernist concept of the case. The skull and its crossbones floating inside the sapphire structure are also made of black ceramic and are an indispensable part of the movement. The movement has some technical features, such as a balance wheel at 12 o’clock or a barrel at 6 o’clock . Clock, visible. The movement is fixed by four screws (the cross keys are some of the bridges of the movement), thereby forming a larger negative space around the movement. To enhance this “floating” feeling, the brand’s logo and hour markers are printed on the inner surface of the crystal.
As mentioned earlier, the concept of Laughing Skull still exists in BR 01 Cyber Skull. This means that the watch keeps its cool animations on the dial. When the wearer winds the movement through the crown, the lower jaw will move up and down, opening and closing as if laughing at you. As the movement relaxes, it sometimes reveals part of the barrel, and sometimes it is almost hidden.
The other side of the watch shows a manual winding movement, the BR-CAL.208 movement developed by movement manufacturer Concepto. The bridge frame is completely painted black, once again shaped as a skull, and contrasts with the rhodium-plated moving parts (ratchet, barrel and gear train). The regulating organ of the movement is located on the side of the dial (the brain as the skull), runs at a frequency of 4 Hz, and has a power reserve of 50 hours.
Bell & Ross BR 01 Cyber Skull is a surprising watch… In a sense, it still remains close to the identity and code of Bell & Ross. Military and aviation inspiration still exists, but its shape is very different from previous models. The ultra-modern, avant-garde styling raises a question: Will this become a brand new direction, a new watch series with more modern inspiration, or will it be kept as an independent design? Time will prove everything. The certainty of this Cyber Skull watch is that although it looks like a stealth aircraft, it will not fly under the radar of the wrist. B&R is clearly a bold statement.
Technical Specifications-BELL＆ROSS BR 01 CYBER SKULL
Case: 46mm square case-matte black ceramic-sapphire crystal glass front and back cover, A/R coating-water resistance 50m
Dial: hollow dial with black ceramic skull head-hands equipped with black Super-LumiNova black-hour markers and logos are transferred on the crystal-balance visible at 12 o’clock
Move the “chin” when winding
Movement: BR-CAL.208 movement, jointly developed with Concepto-manual winding-21 jewels-4Hz frequency-power reserve 50h-hours and minutes
Strap: black rubber strap-black PVD coated steel pin buckle
Reference: BR01-CSK-CE / SRB