Independent watchmaker Francois-Paul Journe has added a ninth model to the Octa series of the same name brand, the F.P. Journe Quantième Perpétuel, a perpetual calendar timepiece with instantaneous jump function. This limited edition of 900 watches made its debut in Geneva during the SIHH and GTE watch exhibitions.
The perpetual calendar automatically considers the variable length of the month and leap year cycle to display the exact date as well as the date, month and phase of the moon. Making such a calendar is one of the most difficult achievements of the watchmaking industry, because its movement must have a mechanical “memory” of 1,461 days or four years. The mechanism is usually based on the differential gear system of the hour wheel and consists of hundreds of components, cogwheels, gears, levers and rockers. The pinion planetary gear connected to the month mechanism fully rotates in four years.
In the fourth year, this mechanism is shown as February 29, and then it jumps to March 1. Similar to the moon rotating around the earth, the planetary wheel rotates on its own axis and is fixed on the rotating wheel. The permanent calendar does not need to manually correct the date before March 1, 2100, and the Gregorian calendar rule will not be a year.
The F.P. Journe Quantième Perpétuel emphasizes legibility; its clean and tidy dial has four large apertures: two for the day and month calendars, and two for the two-digit large date display, which are many other F.P. Journe watches. The instantaneous jump of each calendar function is controlled by a special system designed by Journe, which can accumulate energy and release energy immediately when the date, date or month changes, and then slow it down at the end of its route.
Unlike many other calendars whose calendar functions are difficult to adjust, this watch also emphasizes ease of use. Except for the monthly quick calibration, all calibrations are carried out using the three-position crown, and the calibration for several months uses a hidden calibration rod under the lugs at 1 o’clock and does not require a separate tool. Months of 28, 29, 30, and 31 days are automatically considered, and the leap year is displayed below the hour and minute hands in the center of the dial. The first year, the second and the third year are black, and the fourth year (the year) is red.
Movement FPJ 1300.3 The automatic movement is made of 18K rose gold, which is another emblem of F.P. Journe brand. It has a unique eccentric F.P. Journe rotor made of 22K rose gold, with an automatic filling (self-locking) ball bearing system, and only winds in one direction. This system can provide 120 hours of effective power reserve for the watch; a retrograde display on the dial at 9 o’clock can indicate the power reserve.
Quantième Perpétuel is available in platinum or 18K rose gold with a diameter of 40 mm or 42 mm. The dial is also rose gold or white gold and is fixed by a steel ring with a silver chapter ring. FP Journe stated that this new model essentially replaced the Octa Calendrier model in the series, so when Octa Calendrier was discontinued in 2013, the owner of the Discount fake aaa watch might be happy to learn that his watch has become more collectible.
Movement: Caliber FPJ 1300-3, automatic; diameter = 33 mm; thickness = 5.20 mm; frequency = 21,600 vph; 340 parts including 37 jewels; linear escapement with 15 teeth; chronometric balance with inertia weight; anachron free-sprung flat balance spring; 160-hour power reserve; circular graining on 18k gold baseplate; circular côtes de Genève on 18k gold bridges
Functions: hours, minutes, perpetual calendar with instantaneous jump, simultaneous correction of date and day via crown, correction of month and leap year via hidden, secure corrector
Case and strap: Rose gold or platinum case, 40-mm or 42-mm diameter; on black leather strap
Dial and hands: Rose gold or platinum dial, with silver chapter ring and steel mounting to affix the center of the dial; center-mounted hour and minute hands; leap-year indication by small central hand; two apertures at 12 o’clock for day and month, double aperture at 6 o’clock for large date; hand-type power reserve at 9 o’clock. Online fake aaa watch