When Richard Mille helped a new world in watchmaking, ushered in ingeniously, URWERK luxury really established what I now call contemporary watchmaking. From the quartz age to the late 1990s, watchmakers have focused on the past-changing the same watch slightly over and over again. 103 is a truly iconic work. It represents a new generation (my generation!) Of watchmakers and designers, creating a timepiece from their own point of view. The science fiction reference, casual style and rethinking of the entire timing device are definitely post-quartz. I believe that at this moment we can start to think of watches as works of art.
Like most good art, it did not immediately become popular. Richard Mille uses the familiar characteristics of watches to make it easy for people to enter the modern world. URWERK eliminates all this. I remember an early 103 works that seemed to always sit in a lonely showcase. Now collectors are coveted.
I personally have to admit that it was not until 103.03 that I fully “understood” it. This was the first time the case was publicized to reveal more mechanisms. I bought the first work to enter the country-my first “super exotic”. If Richard Mille fake is Ferrari, then we are talking about Pagani Zonda. This watch really feels like my generation-I am proud of wearing it.
By the way, my wife is much smarter than me, and has unlimited fashion. He immediately “understands”. When she had the opportunity to buy a very beautiful watch, she chose rose gold 103.09.
Therefore, in terms of collection and historical relevance, I want to see who does the best. For me, URWERK and MB & F can best represent contemporary timepieces. Both of them realized that the mechanical watch has got rid of the actual demand and can be used as a sculpture. Although I like most of what URWERK does, the 103 series represents an important point in my life and collecting history, so it is still my favorite. Without one, the collection of watches in the 21st century is incomplete.
Hands-on Urwerk UR-1001 “TITAN”
Remember the Urwerk UR-1001 Zeit device? This is a crazy and complicated pocket watch that increases the time from one second to the millennium. The device was launched in 2012 and is still the brand ’s curiosity. Although we never thought of attaching a Zeit device to your wrist, this is exactly what Urwerk did in the latest version of UR-1001 “TITAN”. It has all the crazy features of a pocket watch, but this time it comes with a detachable wrist strap.
UR-1001 “TITAN” got its name because of the new titanium case. The original material is stainless steel with AlTiN (aluminum titanium nitride) surface treatment. The remains are largely untouched, including their dimensions, which are 106 mm x 62 mm x 23 mm. The new case is much lighter in appearance and weight, and now looks more silver than the original black.
Like other Urwerk products, the 1001 “TITAN” displays the time through a rotating satellite set. Since its establishment in 1997, their investment in wandering time has become the brand’s trademark. The most conspicuous display is located at the bottom of the display (is this a “turntable”?) And reads the hours and minutes. In the upper left corner of the display is the second set of satellites, showing the month and date respectively. The power reserve and day / night indications complete the front with a more traditional instrument form.
Turn the perfect watch over to access the panel, which can be lifted to show the display of the century and the millennium. Thankfully, you do not need to consult regularly. You can also find the “oil change” instructions here, indicating when the device needs to be repaired.
The real strange thing here is that Urwerk made a wrist mount for the device. The strap is made of black leather and is Urwerk’s original design. The equipment must be “installed” in a frame tied to the belt. The items are fixed in place by a series of levers, which are connected to the top and bottom of the frame. Once inside, “TITAN” is tied to the wrist with two leather straps on both sides, making the crown at the wrist easy to access.
Introducing the Urwerk EMC pistol with exquisite case engraving and excellent leather craftsmanship
Last year, Urwerk introduced EMC (Electronic Mechanical Control), a mechanical watch that allows you to electronically check its exchange rate with the touch of a button. Urwerk’s EMC won the “Exception Mechanism” and “Innovation” categories at the 2014 Geneva Watch Awards, and won the Felix Baumgartner’s “Watchmaker of the Year” award in Hong Kong. Today, Urwerk launched the latest version of EMC, the pistol, with complex case engraving and excellent strap leather craftsmanship.
The shell of the EMC pistol was sculpted by Florian Güllert, the master of firearm carving. Freehand carving leaves many scrolls and letter marks on the metal. Gulet explained: “Sculpture is a method of capturing light, which exposes the metal and forms a shadow area. The metal is forcibly processed and surprising, which is what makes it beautiful.” The 43-year-old ‘S master carver has a workshop in Klagenfurt on the shore of Lake Wörthersee in Austria.
In the old watchmaking area of Saint-Gervais in Geneva, you will find the Portalès leather company. Portalès Joséphine Morf and Sylviane are responsible for the beautiful strap of the Urwerk EMC pistol. Moff explained: “We will make each product more or less individually for each series ordered by watchmakers and luxury leather goods manufacturers,” URWERK’s order surprised us at first. What they want is a part of the skin that we rarely use because it can be relieved. The belts we make are truly three-dimensional, with a series of small bumps. “