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Borrowed time: Ulysses Nadine freak

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Ulysse Nardin swiss launched the first automatic version of the game-changing Freak in 2018. However, the revolutionary Grinder winding system is just a noteworthy feature of Freak Vision, which skillfully blends the brand ’s nautical history with forward-looking technological inventions.

At first glance, Ulysse Nardin seems to be a somewhat schizophrenic brand for starters. On the one hand, there is a very traditional and historic nautical theme, which shows that watchmakers have been an important marine chronograph manufacturer in the world navy since the 19th century and modern watches inspired by this history. On the other hand, it has a very modern style, combined with futuristic technological innovation, plus a very unconventional, absolutely avant-garde design, with the appropriately named Freak model as an example, the first of which was a sensation in 2001. Watch industry. But if you take a closer look, you will understand that the two pillars of tradition and innovation are actually complementary, and they are more successful than the recently launched Freak Vision.

From a technical and aesthetic point of view, Freak Vision can be regarded as the ultimate development of the original Freak and its successor successors, including the 2015 Freak Lab and the 2017 InnoVision2 Concept watches-the experimental technology of these timepieces can Find a commercial location in the watch case. UN-250 movement, this is the first self-winding engine installed in Freak watches.

But let’s start with the chassis (or hull, if you like) that is consistent with the marine theme. In my evaluation model, the model is made of brushed platinum and has a diameter of about 45 mm. This case adopts a streamlined new design. By adding a flat box sapphire crystal made of sapphire to the dial, it is thinner than the previous product. The sea blue rubber lining on the side adds a sense of navigation; on the left is a small metal badge, which is fixed with screws and engraved with a time-limited limited edition number. The use of box crystals can make the watch’s bezel thinner. The bezel is made of titanium and has a blue rubber lining to match the inserts on the side, the center dial on the dial and the strap. Like the previous freaks, this rotating bezel is used to set the time,

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In short, the time display itself is a classic freak: a “flying carousel system” in which there are no pointers, only a rectangular movement that rotates along its own axis, the bridge points to the minute, and a rotating disk is also installed. Indicates hours on the motherboard. Not accidentally, the minute bridge on Freak Vision spans the dial, once an hour, and looks a little like the outline of a sailing boat from above. The hour and minute hands are engraved on the sapphire periphery of the open dial.

Maybe we are surpassing ourselves. If you are “Freak Virgin” (when wearing the Online cheap watches on your wrist for the first time, and the watch is not loosened and not fixed), this process may be a little scary at first. On dials without hands, only the clearest indication of time scales – even more terrifying, without a winding crown – how do you find out how to make this timepiece work properly? In fact, which end is this crazy dial pad? At first, you may be inclined to adjust the direction according to the Ulysse Nardin logo, but this will be a mistake, because the logo will be engraved on the rotating disk and move around the turntable over time. All you have to do is use the locked rectangular button engraved with “Freak” as a reference point: it is 6 o’clock,

Again, there is no crown (until SIHH launched the streamlined entry-level Freak X until 2011, and no Freak model has appeared)), so the upper and lower rotating bezel can complete the winding and setting. In addition to providing direction indications, the “Freak” button has more practicality: flip it up from the locked position to unlock the dial side bidirectional rotating bezel to set the hour and minute indications. The three metal “claws” positioned along the bezel provide you with a certain amount of traction (not a lot, but enough) when moving it in either direction. When you start turning the bezel, you will begin to see a white triangular pointer that indicates the hour’s change from the indexing table to the indexing table, and the minute bridge mechanism of the hull has a large balance wheel and a small balance wheel. On the other hand, the white hand also moves clockwise around the sea-blue range of the dial, and its hand indicates the minute. Believe it or not, once you get used to this arrangement, and the tracking of the two hands becomes more intuitive, reading time on Freak Vision is actually much easier than reading time on other watches with traditional analog displays. The contrast between the metal hands, the white hands and the blue glossy dial is so helpful.

Turn the watch over and you will find another rotating bezel made of light titanium, fixing the six screws on the back cover. The wearer rotates counterclockwise for 50 hours to refuel the movement. There are dents that can be held by fingers, and even the “TO WIND” indication with arrows can help novices, but winding the movement in this way is not the easiest task in the world, especially for larger fingers. In fact, the provision of a baffle at the front also poses some challenges in this regard, especially because people may inadvertently close the lock button when rotating it. Of course, one of the benefits of the automatic winding system is that unlike many manual winding springs in Freak Vision, you do n’t need to do much if you wear it regularly.

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This allows us to understand the existing and new innovations of the UN-250 movement and Ulysse Nardin. Before we start the interesting clockwork, it is worth mentioning some other factors that deserve attention. Of course, silicon is present in several prominent parts. Today, watchmaking is everywhere-from Rolex to Omega to Patek Philippe to Baume & Mercier, these movements now use silicon materials. When Ulysse Nardin used it for Freak ’s “Dual Direct” escapement for the first time in 2001, the silicon material was an unproven material with unquestionable properties (diamagnetic, lightweight, corrosion-resistant and low friction , So that no lubrication is required), and has potential defects (brittleness, delicate structure).

Judging from how many brands accept this material, Ulysse Nardin’s early belief in this material seems reasonable, and in the Freak Vision movement, its use continues to maintain rapid development. Silicon (or silicon, because both heterosexuals and Ulysse Nardin itself are easy to refer to it) is used for all components of the so-called “anchor escapement system”, which is designed for Provide constant power to the watch. It has a circular frame with a frictionless fork fixed in the center and supported by two small leaf springs mounted perpendicular to each other. The bending force exerted on these springs stabilizes them, thereby keeping the vibration of the balance wheel constant, thereby eliminating the influence of the torque change from the spring. Therefore, the Great replica watch should maintain consistent accuracy within 50 hours of operation.

Like other Freak movements, the balance wheel is also made of silicon, but Ulysse Nardin’s watchmakers made this dial by welding a strong inertial barrier nickel weight (patented design) to the already ultra-light hub More revolutionary. Set of stable silicon micro blades. This combination makes the center mass of the balance smaller and the outer moment of inertia larger. This type of silicon balance wheel is one of the 10 innovations included in InnoVision 2, which uses gold weights instead of nickel weights.

Like other Freak movements, the balance wheel is also made of silicon, but Ulysse Nardin’s watchmakers made this dial by welding a strong inertial barrier nickel weight (patented design) to the already ultra-light hub More revolutionary. Set of stable silicon micro blades. This combination makes the center mass of the balance smaller and the outer moment of inertia larger. This type of silicon balance wheel is one of the 10 innovations included in InnoVision 2, which uses gold weights instead of nickel weights.

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Another major invention of InnoVision 2 is the introduction of this watch, the so-called Grinder automatic winding system, which is displayed through the sapphire glass window on the back. It is designed to make the best use of the slightest movement of the wearer’s wrist to power the movement. There are three smaller ball bearings under its central ball rotor, connected to a four-arm frame, which provides twice the torque as a typical wound rotor, and the torque is transmitted bidirectionally through two levers, resulting in low idle efficiency Period. Ulysse Nardin likens a “grinding machine” to four pedals instead of two: its movement is smoother, and the flexibility of the frame allows even the wearer ’s minimum movement to be turned into a clockwork Kinetic energy. even better is,

As one would expect, under the magnifying glass, all these mechanisms are fascinating on the back and back of the dial. In addition, as mentioned earlier, one of Freak’s most attractive aspects is its striking movement, which is caused by exposure to the normally invisible moving mechanism under the traditional dial. past. The special shape of the French bar movement bridge attracted people’s attention in the chronograph ensemble. On the hourly journey around the sky blue dial, this is an image of a historic sailing boat, calmly in the blue waves drifting.

Freak Vision is mounted on a rubber-like dark blue crocodile leather strap that echoes the dial’s nautical blue and is firmly integrated into the ergonomically curved lugs to provide a comfortable wrist fit and is made of titanium Foldable clasp fastening-Ulysse Nardin shows comfort, of course, even considering all the micro-mechanical technology of the watch, this is also a top priority for potential people. Compared to the previous generation, the case size is more modest, but it is still strong enough, which also helps the watch to be free under most shirt cuffs, and its blue and silver color scheme makes it look well-dressed like any Freak watch , Unlike the movement of a giant watch exposed on the wrist, it is more like a luxury watch with an avant-garde high-tech face-strangers will notice and ask, and you will be proud to show off.

glasses:

Manufacturer: Ulysse Nardin SA, Rue de Jardin 3, 2400 Le Lecle, Switzerland
Reference number: 2505-250
Function: Rotating French baguette movement indicates the hours and minutes, the front bidirectional baffle setting time, the rear bidirectional baffle manual winding
Movement: UN-250 movement with Grinder automatic winding system with pawls and flexible guides, Ulysse Nardin anchor escapement with large silicon oscillator, self-adjusting silicon micro-blade, silicon gear train , 2.5 Hz frequency, constant amplitude 50 hours power reserve
Case: Platinum with blue rubber on the side strips; titanium bezel with blue rubber lining and 3 titanium alloy riders, boxed domed sapphire crystal glass mirrors, reflective coating on both sides , Titanium alloy display bottom cover is fixed by 6 screws, waterproof depth is 30 m
Strap and buckle: Blue rubber-like crocodile strap with titanium folding buckle
Dimensions: diameter = 45 mm

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