swiss Urwerk 200 watches
Now it is manually wound and uses carbon fiber composite materials.
Urwerk just showed off its next-generation flagship watch-UR-220 “Falcon Project”. Like its predecessor, UR-210, the case shape and the iconic satellite cube hour display remain unchanged, but the “Falcon Project” is a completely different watch.
The UR-220 is powered by a newly developed movement that is wound manually instead of automatically as before. The case of the brand was first made of carbon fiber composite material and equipped with a rubber carbon fiber composite strap.
UR-201 became a milestone in the avant-garde independent watchmaking industry in the three-dimensional roaming, later evolved into UR-203, and then developed into UR-210. The new UR-220 is a substantial incremental improvement. I had hoped that a new time display could replace the satellite indicator, but this may be the distant future.
Even though the front of the UR-220 retains the same appearance, it is fundamentally different mechanically. The movement has been completely redesigned-the movement is still the Zenith Elite movement of UR-210, but the automatic mechanism is now reduced-and new features have been added, such as the cylinder maintenance indicator.
It also saw the addition of a separate power reserve display, which Urwerk said is a complex mechanism that requires 83 parts. Although this may be correct, it doesn’t feel necessary except to make the face have a symmetrical layout.
But one of the most important changes is the case material. Urwerk watches have always been heavy, even in titanium. Combined with the large and angular shell, it meets the requirements of ergonomics to the greatest extent.
Carbon composites are no longer novel, but very common, but it makes sense to use them for UR-220 housings. The lightweight case, coupled with a strong and fit belt, should make the UR-220 the most comfortable Urwerk to date.
The dial retains the familiar layout of the previous generation. The hours are indicated by three rotating cubes, while the minutes are indicated by a large illuminated arrow indicating the retrograde hand.
An important but subtle adjustment to the time display is the typography – Urwerk co-founder Martin Frei has created a new type of template-like font with a sci-fi military style that perfectly matches the appearance of the watch.
A new feature introduced on the UR-220 is a separate power reserve indicator. The power reserve indicator at 1 o’clock measures the power reserve of the last 24 hours-which means it will start to move when the watch is first wound-while the second indicator at 11 o’clock is used for the next 24 hours. After the watch is fully tightened, as the watch runs, the second indicator begins to drop. When the second indicator reaches zero, the first indicator starts to travel backward.
UR-220 can restore the “dashboard” case of the brand’s early swiss watches. Here, it is actually a display-a large maintenance indicator, which counts the total running time of the watch through two scroll wheels. After 39 months or three-quarters of the time, the drum stopped running, indicating that maintenance is recommended (although it may not be important).
The maintenance indicator only works when the watch is running, and does not work when the movement is stopped. The owner has activated it by first removing the long “safety pin” on the back, and then sliding the button up to start counting the scroll wheel. This is an irreversible process and can only be reset by the watchmaker.
The watch case is made of carbon fiber composite material, which is composed of 81 concentrically arranged carbon flakes, with a radiation pattern on the front and many parallel layers on the sides.
Moreover, the strap is made of rubber and is inlaid with various carbon fiber fabrics. More importantly, it is a Velcro fastener, which may make it very suitable for the wrist.
Urwerk UR-220 “Falcon Project” Carbon Edition
Case diameter: 43.8 mm by 53.6 mm
Case height: 14.8 mm
Material: Carbon composite CTP with titanium case back
Water resistance: 30 m
Features: Satellite cube hours and retrograde minutes; double power-reserve displays; and “oil change” indicator
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 48 hours
Strap: Rubber with Velcro fastener